Mikaela Bandini's insider Italy http://urbanitaly.com the travel guide to contemporary Italy Mon, 24 Aug 2015 08:27:47 +0000 en-EN hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.9.3 Plan de Corones | Messner Mountain Museumhttp://urbanitaly.com/architecture/contemporary/plan-de-corones-messner-mountain-museum.html http://urbanitaly.com/architecture/contemporary/plan-de-corones-messner-mountain-museum.html#comments Mon, 24 Aug 2015 08:26:19 +0000 http://urbanitaly.com/?p=4491 MMMC fiItaly has a new museum in the sky – and underground. It’s a high-altitude museum, a mountaineering museum, a Zaha Hadid museum, a very impressive museum. The Messner Mountain Museum Corones opened just a few weeks ago, the last of six interconnected MMMs scattered among the peaks of the South Tyrol and the next-door province …]]> MMMC fi

Italy has a new museum in the sky – and underground.

It’s a high-altitude museum, a mountaineering museum, a Zaha Hadid museum, a very impressive museum.

The Messner Mountain Museum Corones opened just a few weeks ago, the last of six interconnected MMMs scattered among the peaks of the South Tyrol and the next-door province of Belluno. All dedicated, in case you hadn’t guessed, to mountains, or some aspect of them. And founded, just as obviously, by Reinhold Messner, local hero, explorer and adventurer, the Greatest Mountaineer according to the National Geographic, the first ever to climb all 14 of the planet’s mountains over 8000 metres.

So his latest adventure was a partnership with Zaha Hadid and the Plan de Corones holiday area consortium. It seems to have been quite a success.

2275 metres up, on the summit plateau of the Plan de Corones mountain itself (also Kronplatz in the other of the three languages used in these parts), the mostly-concrete structure designed by the Iraqi-British archistar is largely invisible, built underground, without so much as a hint of a right angle. It has four floors, like broad landings on a winding staircase. Down below, where the temperature is naturally constant, are panoramic windows and a terrace with views spanning the Alps and the Dolomites, a projection room and ample spaces for temporary exhibitions and presentations, as well as a central hall where photographs, records, relics and artworks collected by Messner are on show. The upper floor houses the ticket office, a museum shop and the cloakroom.

The new MMM is all fluid lines and about as energy efficient as they come.

What you see from the outside, when you get up there on foot or – mercifully – by cable car, is the smallest part of the total 1000 square metres: an entrance and three giant windows on the alpine world protruding sideways from the rock. 

Another addition to the attractions of the Alto Adige/Südtirol, the paragon of high-altitude holiday-making in Europe: all mountain, forest and unrivaled facilities.

Messner Mountain Museum Corones
Plan de Corones (BZ)
+39 0471 631264
corones@messner-mountain-museum.it

]]>
http://urbanitaly.com/architecture/contemporary/plan-de-corones-messner-mountain-museum.html/feed 0
Rome | Hotel Indigohttp://urbanitaly.com/sleeping-around/rome-hotel-indigo.html http://urbanitaly.com/sleeping-around/rome-hotel-indigo.html#comments Mon, 17 Aug 2015 10:31:03 +0000 http://urbanitaly.com/?p=3639 hotel indigo fi 2There is nothing understated about Hotel Indigo. As a 5 Star Luxury Boutique Design Hotel, it fits the bill hyperbolically. The historic building is elegant, immaculately restored and boasts a superb location in the Eternal City centre’s Via Giulia, where plots were to die for in the sixteenth century and today the elite shop for …]]> hotel indigo fi 2

There is nothing understated about Hotel Indigo.

As a 5 Star Luxury Boutique Design Hotel, it fits the bill hyperbolically. The historic building is elegant, immaculately restored and boasts a superb location in the Eternal City centre’s Via Giulia, where plots were to die for in the sixteenth century and today the elite shop for art and antiques. The theme is Italian art and design and the décor contemporary to a fault. Its 64 rooms are served by a sumptuous spa as well as a wine bar and modern-Mediterranean, farm-to-fork restaurant, both of which migrate to a rooftop terrace with breathtaking views during the summer months. Everything you could wish for in Rome, it seems.

Via Giulia, planned by Donato Bramante and emblematic of high Renaissance architecture in Rome, runs parallel to the River Tiber within the loop that contains Pizza Navona, the Campo dei Fiori and Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. Part of Hotel Indigo rests on huge blocks of Travertine marble laid for a public building never completed. It’s a prestigious area, historically at the cutting edge of creativity, and that’s what inspired the interiors.

But beware that décor! The noble art-and-design theme comes down to wall-size blow-ups of details from paintings by Caravaggio, architectural motifs by Bramante and the original Fiat 500, depending on the type of room or area you’re in: gigantographies swamping spaces that weren’t over-spacious from the first. Similarly over-the-top are some of the furnishings, a blow to the head rather than a design coup. They do indeed confer a strong personality, but occasionally you wonder whether you’re looking at pure kitsch or overkill as a design concept.
You’ll either love it or hate it. If it’s the former, you won’t mind paying the going price for 5-star services in Rome’s most fashionable district.

Hotel Indigo Rome – St. George
Via Giulia 62
00186 Roma
+39 06 686611
stgeorge@hotel-invest.com

]]>
http://urbanitaly.com/sleeping-around/rome-hotel-indigo.html/feed 0
Locorotondo | Barba, Baffi e Pelliccehttp://urbanitaly.com/food-wine/hot-spots/locorotondo-barba-baffi-e-pellicce.html http://urbanitaly.com/food-wine/hot-spots/locorotondo-barba-baffi-e-pellicce.html#comments Mon, 10 Aug 2015 15:57:54 +0000 http://urbanitaly.com/?p=4291 BBePThe first thing you notice about Barba, Baffi e Pellicce – if you just happen to be moseying around Locorotondo in the heel of Italy’s boot – is the sign outside. Eliciting a sure double take, it consists of three cameos depicting the name. First a beard, then some fine moustaches, and then the hilariously ambiguous …]]> BBeP

The first thing you notice about Barba, Baffi e Pellicce – if you just happen to be moseying around Locorotondo in the heel of Italy’s boot – is the sign outside. Eliciting a sure double take, it consists of three cameos depicting the name. First a beard, then some fine moustaches, and then the hilariously ambiguous pellicce, which looks like a glass of wine and then is quite obviously a rendering of the female pubic region (or quite possibly vice versa), while the word itself implies something furry but also (in the local dialect) getting a skinful.

That sorted, is this bar and eatery worth a closer look? You bet. The genius behind the logo and indeed the whole quality-based concept is Salvatore (Toto) Patronelli, bearded. Brother Luciano, mustachioed (you guessed?), is the wizard behind the bar who shakes up peerless spirits, tonics and spices and adds fruit for some of the best drinks in the South. That’s how they started out around five years ago, with a hipster philosophy, liquid attitude and a deal of skill, soon gaining a reputation for five-star, original cocktails in a stylish gem of a setting.

Then came the eats and another remarkable marketing stunt in the unlikely (feminine) form of a rosetta. The puffy bread roll became the signature, gourmet street food at BBeP, filled with the finest cured meats, cheeses and pickles the local masserie can offer, or exceptional specialty products selected from more distant Italian producers. No lack of attitude in the solids department either, with traditional as well as weird and wonderful combinations among the fillings and some very classy packaging for rosette to go. 

Rosetta Retro Food – but note they also do pasta, burgers, fish and platters of excellent cheeses and cured meats - is made up behind the counter in the retrobottega, the back room, the only space available in BBeP’s lively if limited quarters. Wash it down with one of Luciano’s concoctions, a cool artisanal beer or a glass of choice, organic wine. 

Worth moseying around, by the way, is Locorotondo. A pretty, typically Apulian town perched on top of a low hill with marvellous views over the Valle d’Itria, celebrated for its trulli and exceptional wines.

Barba, Baffi e Pelliccie
Via Vittorio Veneto 1
70010 Locorotondo (BA)
+39 328 6177334
info@bbep.it

]]>
http://urbanitaly.com/food-wine/hot-spots/locorotondo-barba-baffi-e-pellicce.html/feed 0
Venice | Altrovehttp://urbanitaly.com/shopping/clothes/venice-altrove.html http://urbanitaly.com/shopping/clothes/venice-altrove.html#comments Mon, 03 Aug 2015 17:11:31 +0000 http://urbanitaly.com/?p=4293 Altrove new fiTaking a turn in Venice a few weekends ago, I stumbled on the coolest little clothing store I’d seen in a long time, and went in to discover a concept, an atelier, a brand and a style that left me dazzled. Altrove is the name (it means ‘elsewhere’) and the subtitle because nothing is as it …]]> Altrove new fi

Taking a turn in Venice a few weekends ago, I stumbled on the coolest little clothing store I’d seen in a long time, and went in to discover a concept, an atelier, a brand and a style that left me dazzled.

Altrove is the name (it means ‘elsewhere’) and the subtitle because nothing is as it seems.

Indeed it isn’t. It certainly isn’t what you might expect. 

Altrove is a series of radical choices made, starting in 2010, by Miriam Nonino, graphic designer and patternmaker (shown in the photos), and Alessandra Milan, art historian with experience in retail. It came into being just as soon as they met and clicked, and their first bold decision was to set up shop in Venice rather than fashion capital Milan. They also do it all themselves, except – as of their second collection – the sewing.

Theirs is design, not fashion; the concept is architectural and timeless. Each new collection has a name and a season, no year. They don’t sketch styles, but apply pure shapes directly to paper, creating patterns graded in just two sizes. The resulting garments, women’s and men’s, are geometrical constructions, simple, loose and adaptable to several sizes, figures and tastes, sometimes wearable in more ways than one. Other trademarks are fine, all-Italian fabrics, plain colours and raw edges – one of the ‘imperfections’, sartorially speaking, Altrove flaunts as a merit.

Marketing the label is no exception to their exceptional way of doing things: they choose a different photographer for each collection, making it an artistic project rather than a fashion shoot, with customer-friends for models. And then Altrove clothing is the common thread in a series of testimonials in several artistic disciplines – photography, video, music, performance – under the banner of the Altrove Experience: the latest was an in-store aerial installation by graphic artist Anna Pontel.

The atelier and ‘flagship’ store are in the San Polo district – right in the middle of the island, tucked in the curve of the Grand Canal and brimming with craft workshops and those tiny, typically Venetian osterie known as bacari. But the Altrove label can be found in its own e-boutique and elsewhere, where boutique owners are brave and devoted enough to buy direct from the makers and at all the wrong times of the fashion year.

For that’s how Miriam and Alessandra do it: on their own terms, following their own rhythms. 

Altrove Atelier & Studio
Calle Moro 2659/A
San Polo 30125 Venezia
+39 041 4764473
contact@iosonoaltrove.com

]]>
http://urbanitaly.com/shopping/clothes/venice-altrove.html/feed 0
Caltagirone | Sicilian Ceramicshttp://urbanitaly.com/art-design/caltagirone-sicilian-ceramics.html http://urbanitaly.com/art-design/caltagirone-sicilian-ceramics.html#comments Mon, 27 Jul 2015 19:55:16 +0000 http://urbanitaly.com/?p=4339 Caltagirone dueddi headTry as you might, it’s hard to identify a truly distinctive pottery among so many in Caltagirone. There are small workshops-cum-stores in which a single craftsperson plies his or her trade, and larger-scale producers with ample showrooms and an international mailing list. There are those offering ceramics of simple charm and those whose art is …]]> Caltagirone dueddi head

Try as you might, it’s hard to identify a truly distinctive pottery among so many in Caltagirone. There are small workshops-cum-stores in which a single craftsperson plies his or her trade, and larger-scale producers with ample showrooms and an international mailing list. There are those offering ceramics of simple charm and those whose art is fine; those who play safe with age-old tradition and those who hazard a contemporary touch. All together, though, they uphold a proud, entirely artisanal practice dating back more than three millennia and their city’s claim to be the capital of Sicilian ceramic art.

An abundance of good clay and wood to supply the furnaces accounts for the culture and economy of terra-cotta even before the dawn of history in this hilly area in south-western Sicily, and the influence of assorted conquerors or colonists (Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Saracens, the Spanish, maybe more…) explains a lot about today’s techniques, forms and decoration. 

If you’re manic about ceramics and have shopping in mind, you just have to scout around. There are tiles and plates and bowls galore, vases and cachepots, table lamps and wall lamps, human and animal figures, everything you might need (and a great deal you won’t) in the kitchen and giant umbrella stands. Etc. Oh, and heads, typically Saracens’ heads but lots with paler faces too. They’re invariably ornate in form or decoration, and often in both, with repetitions of swirly patterns drawn from nature. Green, yellow and blue are the conventional, but not only, colours. 

Ceramics feature outside the stores and showrooms too, in local architecture, decorating public buildings and parks, streets and squares, churches and private houses. The monumental example is the flight of 140-odd steps, the Scalinata di Santa Maria del Monte, the rises of which were faced, in 1954, with majolica tiles, a different pattern for each step, hand-made and hand-painted according to time-honoured customs. 

And of course there’s a regional museum of pottery, and even a museum of contemporary ceramics.

Caltagirone is among those Late Baroque Towns of the Val di Noto nominated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, so it isn’t just about pottery. And, to be fair, there are other towns in Sicily claiming the title for ceramics production, notably Sciacca (west of Agrigento on the south coast), nearby but inland Burgio, and Santo Stefano di Camastra (on the north coast, east of Cefalù).

]]>
http://urbanitaly.com/art-design/caltagirone-sicilian-ceramics.html/feed 0
Turin |Mollino & Nervi in Turinhttp://urbanitaly.com/art-design/mollino-and-nervi-in-turin.html http://urbanitaly.com/art-design/mollino-and-nervi-in-turin.html#comments Mon, 20 Jul 2015 15:14:56 +0000 http://urbanitaly.com/?p=4246 Nervi fiHere it is then, the Turin architecture tour dedicated to just two iconic figures of the 20th century: Carlo Mollino and Pier Luigi Nervi. Our professional architect-guide will lead you on an exclusive itinerary, tailor-made to suit your schedule and interests, taking in their finest surviving works in the city and giving you the lowdown. …]]> Nervi fi

Here it is then, the Turin architecture tour dedicated to just two iconic figures of the 20th century: Carlo Mollino and Pier Luigi Nervi. Our professional architect-guide will lead you on an exclusive itinerary, tailor-made to suit your schedule and interests, taking in their finest surviving works in the city and giving you the lowdown.

Architect, designer, photographer and accomplished sportsman, Carlo Mollino (1905 – 1973) rarely strayed from his native Turin. He was eccentric and passionate, chose only commissions which granted free rein to his highly personal style, was dismissed by most of his creative contemporaries and revered by subsequent generations.

Two public buildings in the city centre now typify his genius as an architect: the visionary Chamber of Commerce (Palazzo degli Affari della Camera di Commercio) in Via San Francesco da Paola, and the supremely elegant reconstruction of the Teatro Regio in Piazza Castello, both designed in 1964 but completed only in the early 1970s. Other remarkable works in Turin have been demolished (the former HQ of the Turin Equestrian Association is one, built in 1937 but with not a trace of the prevailing rationalism) or profoundly altered (such as the RAI Auditorium, 1951).

Mollino designed the interiors of several private residences in the city, often conceiving furniture ad hoc, particularly seating, and getting it produced by master artisans Apelli & Varesio. Happily, he did the same for a dance hall in 1959 (then the Dancing Lutrario now Le Roi) which has survived pretty much intact and still stunning. The same can be said – and it would still be understatement – of Casa Mollino, the extraordinary apartment close to the river decorated and furnished by Mollino for his own use as of 1961. He never lived there, but designed most of the rooms as elaborate settings in which to photograph women – sensual female portraiture was one of his obsessions and he left a vast collection of erotic polaroids – and one as the scene for his own death (it didn’t work out: he died suddenly while working in his study). Fulvio and Napoleone Ferrari have restored the whole apartment and opened it as a private museum. Unmissable.

Everything is permissible as long as it is fantastic

             Carlo Mollino

Last on the Mollino trail, a comprehensive archive of his work is kept in the library of the School of Architecture at the Politecnico di Torino where he taught architectural composition.

Pier Luigi Nervi‘s was a talent of a different, more pragmatic ilk. Born in Rome in 1891, he trained as a civil engineer rather than in architecture and set up his own construction company. It’s said he had the all the expertise of an engineer, the imagination of an architect and the acumen of an entrepreneur. He was commissioned to work on all five continents, mainly for his singularly plastic use of reinforced concrete, and collaborated with architects as brilliant as Le Corbusier and Louis Kahn.

Turin boasts some of his finest works and we want to show them to you. First, chronologically speaking, are parts of Torino Esposizioni, the exhibition complex on the riverside just south of the city centre originally planned in 1936 by Ettore Sottsass senior. In a post-war revision of the complex (1947-1954), adapting it to host the grand Turin Motor Show, Nervi planned and built an impressive, self-supporting, arched extension of  the central pavilion, and a vast new pavilion with a ribbed vault resting on four arches: both were extraordinary and innovative structures in which Nervi made full use of the advantages of prefabricated structural components.

 … the most brilliant artist in reinforced concrete of our time

           Nikolaus Pevsner

To the west, again near the banks of the Po, is an industrial building designed by Nervi, the old tram maintenance depot on Corso Tortona, known as the Capannone Nervi (1954). It’s considered one of his minor works, along with extensions to the FIAT Mirafiori factory in the southern suburbs or the one in Rivalta, about 15 km outside the city, but constitutes a fine example of his manically precise, polytechnic contribution to Turin’s industrial architecture in the 1950s.

Lastly, much farther south along the river is the marvellous Palazzo del Lavoro (1959-1961), completed for the centenary of unified Italy, and the epitome of the later style for which he was internationally acclaimed. Giò Ponti and Gino Covre collaborated in designing the building using cutting-edge techniques. A single square structure of 156-metre sides, its roof is supported by steel beams fanning out from the top of 16 huge, tapering, concrete columns, the whole wrapped in a glass curtain wall reinforced by vertical mullions. It is now unoccupied, in a sad state of disrepair and facing an uncertain future. 

Contact mikaela(at)urbanitaly.com for more information and a customised Mollino and/or Nervi Turin tour. 

]]>
http://urbanitaly.com/art-design/mollino-and-nervi-in-turin.html/feed 0
Volterra | Podere Scopicciolohttp://urbanitaly.com/sleeping-around/volterra-podere-scopicciolo.html http://urbanitaly.com/sleeping-around/volterra-podere-scopicciolo.html#comments Mon, 13 Jul 2015 14:28:32 +0000 http://urbanitaly.com/?p=4314 CatturaAnd now for something quintessentially Tuscan. A beautiful stone farmhouse set at the end of a cypress-lined drive in the rolling hills between Pisa and Siena, impeccably appointed down to the tiniest detail in that elegant, classic-arcadian style and equipped with all the requisites of easy living. The only problem may be finding a vacancy. Podere Scopicciolo is …]]> Cattura

And now for something quintessentially Tuscan. A beautiful stone farmhouse set at the end of a cypress-lined drive in the rolling hills between Pisa and Siena, impeccably appointed down to the tiniest detail in that elegant, classic-arcadian style and equipped with all the requisites of easy living. The only problem may be finding a vacancy.

Podere Scopicciolo is a villa, an apartment in an annexe, patios, gardens and a pool, all with views to die for, all for weekly let. 

With four double rooms – each with its en-suite luxury bathroom – and one single, the villa itself sleeps 11 very comfortably. A state-of-the-art kitchen and a smart lounge area with an antique stone fireplace make up the rest of it. Indoors, that is. The annexe, La Limonaia, is meant for two, with the bedroom on a mezzanine floor and the kitchen and lounge at ground level, though the sofa-bed could sleep two more and there’s a second bathroom down there. 

The garden is lovely; the pool is surrounded by seating and sunbeds; and there’s all you need for alfresco dining including a barbecue area and a wood-fired oven.

All the requisites of easy living indeed and also some for an easy conscience, should you need them, for Podere Scopicciolo was conceived as an eco-friendly model. Green building techniques, solar panels and cells, geothermal technology and constructed wetlands account for space heating and cooling, water heating, waste water recycling and all electrical energy needed to run this idyllic property.

The proud owners are Cecilia and Marco. They’re always on hand, discreetly, to dispense a warm welcome and extra services (including catering on request) as well as lots of friendly advice.

Far from the madding crowd it may be, and silence and serenity distinguishing features, but Podere Scopicciolo is only a few minutes by car from Volterra, San Gimignano and Monteriggioni and within easy reach of Siena and the Chianti area, Pisa, Florence and even some of Tuscany’s finest beaches.

Villa Podere Scopicciolo
Strada Provinciale 27 di Casole d’Elsa
56048 Volterra (PI)
+39 0588 086173 / +39 338 6632958
info@poderescopicciolo.com

]]>
http://urbanitaly.com/sleeping-around/volterra-podere-scopicciolo.html/feed 0
Milan | Like Gelateriahttp://urbanitaly.com/food-wine/hot-spots/milan-like-gelateria.html http://urbanitaly.com/food-wine/hot-spots/milan-like-gelateria.html#comments Mon, 06 Jul 2015 16:08:03 +0000 http://urbanitaly.com/?p=3638 gelatoThe heat is on in Milan. It couldn’t be any other way at this time of Expo year. By way of antidote, what better than some of the best ice cream northern Italy can offer, at Like, smack bang in the city centre. Now if Like is well served by its proximity to a branch of Grom …]]> gelato

The heat is on in Milan. It couldn’t be any other way at this time of Expo year. By way of antidote, what better than some of the best ice cream northern Italy can offer, at Like, smack bang in the city centre.

Now if Like is well served by its proximity to a branch of Grom (with all due respect) in Via Santa Margherita, a few steps west of La Scala, it hardly needs the comparison to stand head and shoulders above average. From a superlative, classic granita al limone, through all the time-honoured fruity and nutty flavours that taste exquisitely of fruits and nuts (the pistachio is to die for), to a few more exotic formulas (though nothing ridiculously wacky), it’s hard not to exclaim they’re the best you’ve ever tried. Needless to say they’re all handcrafted, on the premises, from choicest ingredients.

Add the lack of the long queues dogging Like‘s lionised neighbour, and the obliging manner of Marina and her staff, and it’s really a no-brainer in this part of town.

If you’re passing earlier in the day, bear in mind that Like is not only gelateria but a fully-fledged bar and artisanal patisserie too. The coffee’s good and the croissants superb. Meanwhile, back in the kitchen, they’re preparing savoury snacks for tasty light lunches, and a bounteous assortment of cakes, pastries and desserts with those same standards of excellence.

Like Gelateria & Pasticceria
Via Santa Margherita 26
20121 Milano
+39 02 89010273

 
]]>
http://urbanitaly.com/food-wine/hot-spots/milan-like-gelateria.html/feed 0
Bologna | L’Inde Le Palaishttp://urbanitaly.com/food-wine/hot-spots/bologna-linde-le-palais.html http://urbanitaly.com/food-wine/hot-spots/bologna-linde-le-palais.html#comments Mon, 29 Jun 2015 15:30:49 +0000 http://urbanitaly.com/?p=4197 Lindelepalais long fiL’Inde Le Palais comes straight out of left field, tucked away as it is in the labyrinthine streets of old Bologna, overshadowed by the enormity of Piazza Maggiore and the Basilica di San Petronio. Ambling by or headed elsewhere, it’s easy to miss the shop front in historic Via dè Musei, and that would be a …]]> Lindelepalais long fi

L’Inde Le Palais comes straight out of left field, tucked away as it is in the labyrinthine streets of old Bologna, overshadowed by the enormity of Piazza Maggiore and the Basilica di San Petronio. Ambling by or headed elsewhere, it’s easy to miss the shop front in historic Via dè Musei, and that would be a shame because it’s a great deal more than it seems.

Very much a concept store, L’Inde Le Palais fans out over two floors and 700 square metres, dedicated – in its own words – to beauty, luxury and sophistication.

For the most part that means haute fashion, women’s and men’s: clothing and all the accessories from a vast range of lofty and/or gritty collections stretching from classics Givenchy, Chanel, Emilio Pucci, Valentino etc. through visionary and niche designers like Gareth Pugh, Haider Ackermann or Peter Pilotto to offbeat lines and exclusive creations like those of Kd2024 or Our Exquisite Corpse. And these are but drops in an ocean of labels.

Another of those drops is in-house brand Amen, lately forging ahead in the international luxury market and boasting a new flagship store and showroom in Milan. For L’Inde Le Palais belongs to Jato, acronym for designer Jacopo Tonelli who launched Amen from his textiles and embroidery business just outside Bologna around 10 years ago.

But back to the store, where all this rare bounty is exquisitely displayed against a contemporary backdrop of bare, industrial-shabby walls and flooring enriched by ornate vintage frames, chandeliers and other occasional props: a seductive, 360° mise-en-scène you immediately want to photograph from every angle.

L’Inde Le Palais is also exclusive perfumes, selected books and interior design pieces, and has its own spa and beauty salon on the second floor. 

Another branch of the same creative project is Cafè Le Palais, under the ancient arcade right opposite, a refined boho-baroque hangout for followers of fashion. 

In line with the concept, both store and Cafè host some of the city’s more exclusive events. Valentino and John Galliano, to name just a couple, have been protagonists on the fashion scene, while the most recent was an exhibition of photographs by Alessandro Gui. The Cafè is a favourite venue for society receptions as well as concerts and vernissages.

All terribly swish and milanese in a Bologna better known, or perhaps stereotyped, as a hotbed of political and cultural radicals. But then Bologna is full of surprises. 

L’Inde Le Palais 
Via dè Musei 6 
40124 Bologna 
+39 051 6203015
customercare@lindelepalais.com

Cafe’ Le Palais 
Via dè Musei 4  
40124 Bologna 
+30 051 6486963 

]]>
http://urbanitaly.com/food-wine/hot-spots/bologna-linde-le-palais.html/feed 0
Bari | La Ciclaterahttp://urbanitaly.com/food-wine/hot-spots/bari-la-ciclatera.html http://urbanitaly.com/food-wine/hot-spots/bari-la-ciclatera.html#comments Mon, 22 Jun 2015 13:14:31 +0000 http://urbanitaly.com/?p=4259 la ciclatera mokaNot so long ago it was a no-go area, even before dark. Nowadays a stroll through the labyrinthine alleys and under the many arches of medieval Bari or Bari Vecchia - restored, refined and respectable – is an engaging experience, worth making time for before catching a ferry or heading for Apulia’s more obvious attractions. It’s …]]> la ciclatera moka

Not so long ago it was a no-go area, even before dark. Nowadays a stroll through the labyrinthine alleys and under the many arches of medieval Bari or Bari Vecchia - restored, refined and respectable – is an engaging experience, worth making time for before catching a ferry or heading for Apulia’s more obvious attractions.

It’s said the old town, built on a spur of land projecting into the Adriatic Sea, was designed to confound invaders, and you’ll believe that as you lose any sense of direction among the weaving passages. But when you’re tired of wandering, key Corte Colagualano into your navigator app and head for La Ciclatera.

You’ll find a tiny café and bar in the shadow of the cathedral, where a low, vaulted ceiling and walls in exposed stone are offset by cosy upholsteries and damask panels, in a décor which borrows genially from art nouveau, boho and vintage all at once. Soft lighting and candles as well as a crack choice of background music enhance the aura. 

The host of this charming establishment and leader of a team of professionals is Massimo Vox. He opens almost every evening of the year at 7 pm to serve cocktails and beers with (or without) appetizers, toasted sandwiches, platters of cheeses and cured meats, as well as specialty coffees, teas, chocolate drinks and mouth-watering, home-made desserts. One of the trademarks is variously-flavoured coffee brewed and served in the iconic, household Moka coffee maker - la ciclatera in the local dialect. 

Indoors is intimate and atmospheric, a table outdoors in summer is a cool Bari vecchia experience. And you won’t be disappointed by the fare or dismayed by the bill.

La Ciclatera 
Corte Colagualano 36
70122 Bari
+39 333 3735155

]]>
http://urbanitaly.com/food-wine/hot-spots/bari-la-ciclatera.html/feed 0