Categories Archives

Food + Wine

Rome | Ai Tre Scalini

Rome's Monti neighbourhood is still relatively untamed: as central as they come at barely a stone's thrown from the Colosseum and yet off the beaten tourist track and proud of it, its up-and-down streets more than a little scruffy, peopled by arty types, artisans, intellectuals and, come evening, the patrons of many bars and eateries ancient and modern. Among which, the ...

Bari | Biancofiore

Whenever I’m in Bari, there’s no question of where to eat. It’s a no-brainer. Biancofiore is the name of the place, and the surname of Diego who runs it along with his wife Daniela. You’ll meet them when you try it out because they’re always there, front of house, in persons, exceptional hosts. It’s a small restaurant, unassuming from the outside ...

Corneliano Bertario | Osteria del Castello

Corneliano Bertario is a medieval hamlet in idyllic surroundings of farmland and woods, not far from the banks of the Adda river in Lombardy and included in the riverine conservation area. It's only 25 km east of Milan and yet it feels like another planet. And yet (again) it has one of the hippest hipster addresses in the whole region. Family-run, if not ...

Florence | Aquazzura

No design lovers' tour of Florence, let alone a retail jaunt, would be complete without checking out the Aquazzura flagship store on Lungarno Corsini. For several good reasons. First of all, though only in their fourth year, Edgardo Osorio's collections are already legendary. At the venerable age of 25, after studying fashion and design in London and styling footwear for several ...

Palermo | PerciaSacchi

When in Palermo, try PerciaSacchi for a taste of Sicily that's off the well-beaten tourist track. On a pint-sized square among the labyrinthine alleys of the ancient district of Il Capo, which lends its name to one of the city's famous animated and colourful daily markets, PerciaSacchi is more into mellow-and-charming than design, but then that's more in keeping with its spirit. ...

Bologna | È Cucina

È Cucina is a restaurant with another name, without which you only know the half of it. That name is Cesare Marretti: chef, restaurateur, designer and campaigner for healthy eating (and an active lifestyle) all rolled into one patently eccentric figure. Before settling in Bologna, he'd collected experiences around the globe and refined a distinctive concept. It's all about simplicity, ...

Milan | Capra e Cavoli

Barbara Clementina Ferrario, not your everyday, common-or-garden sort of chef, took a shine to this part of Milan and made it her own with a distinctive restaurant in her own image. She called it Capra e Cavoli. Quasi-vegetarian and vegan on request, Capra e Cavoli occupies the top floor of a pretty nondescript building tucked away behind the Porta Garibaldi railway station, ...

Vico Equense | Antica Osteria Nonna Rosa

It sounds like one of those unassuming, family taverns the locals would flock to for homely food and lots of it. It even looks like one, at first glance. But no. Antica Osteria Nonna Rosa, on the road that climbs out of Vico Equense towards Monte Faito, is a gourmet destination boasting a Michelin star. Not that chef Peppe Guida, who ...

Genoa | Romeo Viganotti

Judging by the number of stands on Bologna's Piazza Maggiore a couple of weeks ago for Cioccoshow 2015, artisanal chocolate making in Italy is alive and kicking, and not only in the well-known chocolate arc that links Pisa to Prato via Pistoia. On the contrary, chocolateries have burgeoned from top to sole of the boot in the wake of the ...

Milan | un posto a Milano

Here's a place in Milan that's anything but milanese, if we take that, as we generally do, to mean the essence of high-end fashion, design and all that's swanky and sophisticated. un posto a Milano, housed inside a 17th-century farmstead, is a different sort of place, with the kind of style that comes without pretension. Not long ago the buildings at Cascina ...

Bologna | Pusher Barber Shop

There's a new place in Bologna where the concept is as vintage as the décor, where vintage signifies the very finest of a time past. And about now there's nothing more contemporary than that. Pusher Barber Shop offers the ultimate in old-fashioned barbering: the professional service that's practically a pampering ritual delivering clean-cut as well as cutting-edge styles. And it ...

Alba | Piazza Duomo

Eating out in the Langhe is never going to be an ordinary experience, not least because not one but several of Italy's hallowed, signature wines are produced on its rolling hills. Alba is the unofficial capital of the region, and Enrico Crippa's Piazza Duomo its official number 1 restaurant. By the time Enrico Crippa met the Ceretto family - three ...